Works good. If I were to do it over I would only do two taps thru the door. Pismo10, Your solution for a compressor bypass seems simple and reversible.
I am not sure as I read other posts how many people are heading that way. Couple questions or clarifications points for me to gain confidence apologies for non-proper electrical terms : 1 I believe the hot of the original danby power cord is split into two, one goes to compressor the other to I think the control board? Which is why it is important to plug it into the same outlet, so that the two hots coming back on the same negative eventually meet back up? It has several outlets.
Seems that would work similarly to the one outlet concept??? Twist things? Or how about the hot you pull off the compressor? Not sure I saw how you did yours? I tend to like reversible options, but not completely averse to other cool options. I have gotten by with the resistor on the probe fix, but the defrost cycle drives me crazy. Using the resistor was also reversible, so that was cool. My danby is old enough that warranty is not an issue, but reversible fixes also seem to be fairly easy upgrades.
Have also installed a blower and hose up to tower, also a huge improvement. Came through the CO2 hole with the power for the blower, use a plastic pipe from the blower to the tip of tower with extra insulation, all reversible and easy to do without taking too much apart.
Thanks for your repeated efforts on your bypass option. And thanks for any insight you can offer. If it is what I think and your happy with the resistor trick I might have a cheaper alternative. Originally posted by KillianBoy View Post.
Also I think the resistor trick changes both bottom and top not just the top, I think the differential remains the same, if the stock was say by adding the resistor it goes from I'd try the timer and turn it off longer and see how that helps. Last edited by KillianBoy ; , PM. The wires I did not use, I taped them off. The new cord handles hot to the compressor only. I put the probe in thru the hole in the back for the CO2 line and put it on top of a keg, keep it high where it is warmer.
I keep a thermometer up there too. I have no defrost cycle so I have no problem with that. Nothing ever builds up. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies.
But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. Necessary Necessary. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information. Non-necessary Non-necessary. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies.
Do the Right Thing. With room for full or pony sized kegs, this cooler also converts to a 5. Features include an easy-to-program electronic thermostat, a scratch resistant work top for storing accessories and a stainless steel door. Designed for indoor use this keg cooler is perfect for parties or watching the big game. Co2 tank and drip tray are included.
Specifications Dimensions Product Width Features Accommodates full or pony sized kegs 60 litres Stainless steel door Converts to a 5. Warranty 18 months parts and labour coverage with In-Home service. FAQs My beer is foamy. This could be happening for a couple of reasons: 1 the keg is unsettled 2 the beer is too warm 3 The pressure is not set properly we recommend pounds 4 there could be a kink in the line.
Product Gallery Close Gallery.
0コメント